Condition · Fitzpatrick IV to VI · Battersea SW11
Acne keloidalis nuchae treatment, in London.
Healthy skin for every tone. Despite the name, acne keloidalis nuchae is neither acne nor a true keloid. It is a long-term inflammatory condition of the hair follicles at the nape of the neck, and the honest position is that it is managed rather than cured. Caught while it is still small firm papules, the aim is to stop it progressing. Once plaques and scarring hair loss have formed, those changes are generally permanent. That is why the timing of assessment matters more than the product.
A clinician-led assessment with Arman Zaki, GMC-registered Physician Associate (Ref A8131967). At Melatone™ we will tell you plainly which stage you are at, what can reasonably be influenced, and when the right answer is your GP rather than us.
What it actually is
Not acne. Not a keloid. A follicle problem with a misleading name.
The name has caused more confusion than almost any other in dermatology. There are no comedones, so it is not acne. It is not a true keloid either, because it does not follow a single injury and does not behave like keloid scar tissue. What it is, is a chronic inflammatory reaction centred on the hair follicles at the nape of the neck and the lower back of the scalp, which over time lays down fibrous tissue and makes the bumps feel firm.
Firm papules.
Small, hard, often itchy or tender bumps appear along the posterior hairline. At this stage the inflammation is active around individual follicles and this is the point at which intervention is most useful.
Plaques, then scarring.
With repeated inflammation, separate papules coalesce into raised plaques or a band across the nape. Follicles caught in that fibrous tissue are destroyed, leaving smooth areas where hair no longer grows.
The mechanical driver is usually repeated irritation: very close clipper or razor work at the hairline, friction from shirt collars, helmets and headwear. It is reported most often in men of African-Caribbean descent with afro-textured hair, and is also described in men of Hispanic, Middle Eastern, Mediterranean, Asian and Pacific descent. Tightly curved follicle geometry appears to make an emerging hair more likely to provoke the reaction, and the underlying mechanism is not fully understood: DermNet describes it as poorly understood but thought to be exacerbated by mechanical injury and an aberrant immune response. Source: DermNet, Folliculitis keloidalis.
The question everybody asks
Is this a keloid?
Almost always, no. The word "keloidalis" in the name describes how the lesions look, not what they are. Four things get confused with each other here, and they are managed completely differently, so the distinction is worth making properly rather than guessing from a photograph.
- Acne keloidalis nuchae
- Multiple firm papules clustered at the nape and posterior hairline, developing gradually, centred on hair follicles, with no single triggering injury. May progress to plaques and scarring hair loss.
- A true keloid
- Follows a specific injury such as a piercing, a cut, surgery or a burn. Grows beyond the original wound margin and is usually a single lesion. Managed in a dermatology setting, and not something Melatone treats.
- Pseudofolliculitis barbae
- Shaving-dependent, and sits on the beard area and jaw rather than the nape. Driven by a shaved hair re-entering the skin. Covered in full on our ingrown hairs and razor bumps page.
- Bacterial folliculitis, or a fungal scalp infection
- Both can produce bumps and hair loss at the same site and both respond to treatment aimed at the organism. Neither responds to anything aimed at acne keloidalis nuchae, which is exactly why an assessment comes before a treatment plan.
Straight answers
What people actually want to know.
These are the questions asked most often, answered the way we would answer them in the room rather than the way a treatment page usually answers them.
- Is it contagious? No. It cannot be caught, and it is not passed on in a barber's chair or by sharing clippers. It is your own follicles reacting, not an infection.
- Will it go away on its own? Usually not, and while the mechanical irritation continues it tends to slowly extend.
- Can it be cured? No treatment reliably cures it. Anyone promising a cure is overstating the evidence. It is managed.
- Does it spread? Not to other people or other body areas. It extends locally along the nape, and separate papules can merge.
- Is it dangerous? It is not a cancer and it does not threaten your general health. The real risk is permanent scarring and hair loss, which is the argument for acting early.
One exception worth knowing. If a lesion becomes increasingly painful, hot, discharges, or the redness spreads, that suggests secondary infection and needs prompt attention from your GP rather than a cosmetic appointment.
The Melatone approach
Stage it first. Then remove what is driving it.
Most of the value here is in the first two steps, and neither of them is a treatment we sell. That is deliberate.
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Confirm what it is, and what stage it is at.
Papular disease, plaque disease and scarring hair loss are three different conversations. A true keloid, bacterial folliculitis and a fungal scalp infection all need ruling out. This assessment decides everything that follows, including whether we are the right people at all.
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Remove the mechanical trigger.
Stopping very close clipper work at the posterior hairline, avoiding blade-on-skin finishing at the nape, and reducing friction from collars, helmets and headwear. This will not reverse fibrous change that has already happened, but it removes the driver, and nothing else works well while the irritation continues. It costs nothing.
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See your GP for prescribed treatment.
The medical treatment for acne keloidalis nuchae is prescription-only and sits with your GP, who can refer you to dermatology where needed. Melatone does not prescribe for this condition and will not try to substitute for that. If you have not yet been assessed, your GP is the right first appointment, not us.
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Where it fits, laser hair reduction as an adjunct.
Because the condition is centred on hair follicles, reducing the hair in the affected area is a rational adjunct in early papular disease. The published trial tested the laser alongside a prescribed topical regimen, not instead of it, and that is how we use it. In Fitzpatrick IV to VI skin the wavelength the evidence supports is the long-pulsed 1064 nm Nd:YAG. A patch test comes first. Delivered by Catia Zaki, VTCT Level 4 Laser and IPL lead. Results may vary.
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Refer, where referral is the honest answer.
Established plaques, nodules and bands of scarring hair loss are not treated here. They need a dermatology-led service, and we will say so rather than sell you a course of something that will not touch them.
What the evidence actually says
A small trial, and what it did and did not show.
We would rather show you the limits of the evidence than imply a certainty that does not exist. There is one controlled trial of long-pulsed 1064 nm Nd:YAG laser for acne keloidalis nuchae, and it is small.
Woo and colleagues ran a single-blinded, randomised, within-patient right-left controlled trial in 13 patients, with eight monthly laser treatments to one half of the scalp. Across the whole group the treated side improved by 49.2 per cent and the control side by 32.8 per cent, and that difference did not reach statistical significance (P = 0.144). Significance was reached only in the subgroup of 10 patients who had papules alone, where the treated side improved by 59.3 per cent against 29.5 per cent (P = 0.031). The authors describe their own result as promising, particularly for the papular component, and list a small sample and a high dropout rate among their limitations.
Two details from that trial shape how we use it. Both sides of every patient's scalp received a prescribed topical treatment throughout, so what was tested was laser added to prescribed treatment, never laser on its own. And larger plaques and nodules responded poorly, which is why this page routes them to dermatology rather than to a laser course. Source: Woo DK et al. (2018), J Cutan Med Surg, DOI 10.1177/1203475417739846.
So the honest claim is a narrow one: in early papular acne keloidalis nuchae, 1064 nm Nd:YAG laser hair reduction may help improve the appearance of the papular component, as an adjunct to treatment prescribed by your GP or a dermatologist. It is not proven effective for the condition as a whole, and there is no evidence to offer for plaques or nodules. Individual results vary.
What we do not do
The lines we hold on this condition.
- We do not diagnose acne keloidalis nuchae in place of your GP, and we do not prescribe for it.
- We do not treat established plaques, nodules or scarring hair loss. Those are referred.
- We do not promise a cure, or imply that scarred follicles will produce hair again.
- We do not treat an area that is actively infected. That is a GP appointment first.
- We do not use aggressive laser or IPL settings on Fitzpatrick V to VI skin, and never without a patch test and a Fitzpatrick assessment.
Where laser hair reduction is appropriate it is the 1064 nm wavelength, after a patch test, as a planned course alongside treatment someone has prescribed. The default here is conservative and evidence-led.
The consultation
£30, deducted from your first treatment.
One
Assessment and staging
Fitzpatrick typing, a close look at the nape and posterior hairline, whether the picture is papular or already plaque, exclusion of look-alike conditions, and a review of clipper, collar and headwear habits.
Two
An honest plan
What can reasonably be influenced at your stage, what cannot, and whether the next appointment should be with your GP rather than with us. In writing.
Three
Review at 6 to 8 weeks
Photographic comparison at consistent lighting, and a decision on whether anything is worth continuing. If it is not helping, we will tell you.
Questions, answered honestly
Before you book.
What causes acne keloidalis nuchae?
Acne keloidalis nuchae is a chronic inflammatory reaction centred on the hair follicles at the nape of the neck and the lower back of the scalp. Despite the name it is neither acne nor a true keloid. Repeated mechanical irritation appears to be the main driver: close clipper or razor work at the hairline, friction from shirt collars, helmets and headwear, and in some people tightly curved follicle geometry that makes an emerging hair more likely to provoke inflammation. The follicle wall becomes inflamed, and as that inflammation repeats the body lays down fibrous tissue, which is what makes the papules feel firm. It is reported most often in men of African-Caribbean descent with afro-textured hair, and is also described in men of Hispanic, Middle Eastern, Mediterranean, Asian and Pacific descent. A clinical assessment is needed to confirm the diagnosis, because several conditions look similar. Results may vary.
Is acne keloidalis nuchae contagious?
No. Acne keloidalis nuchae is not contagious and cannot be passed to another person by contact, by sharing clippers, or in a barber's chair. It is an inflammatory reaction in your own hair follicles, not an infection you catch. Individual lesions can become secondarily infected, which is a different matter and is worth having looked at, but the underlying condition itself does not spread from person to person.
Can acne keloidalis nuchae be cured?
There is no treatment that reliably cures acne keloidalis nuchae, and any clinic promising a cure is overstating what the evidence supports. It is best understood as a long-term condition that is managed rather than cured. Early papular disease is the stage where intervention is most useful, because the aim is to reduce inflammation and limit the fibrous scarring that follows it. Once firm plaques, nodules or areas of scarring hair loss have formed, those changes are generally permanent and the goal shifts to preventing further progression. This is why getting assessed early matters more than which product you buy. Results may vary.
Does acne keloidalis nuchae go away on its own?
It usually does not. Left alone and with the mechanical trigger continuing, acne keloidalis nuchae tends to persist and slowly progress from scattered firm papules to larger plaques, and in some people to bands of scarring hair loss along the nape. The single most useful thing most people can do early is to change what is irritating the area, which usually means stopping very close clipper work at the hairline and reducing collar or headwear friction. That alone will not reverse existing fibrous change, but it removes the driver.
Can acne keloidalis nuchae spread?
Not in the sense of spreading to another person or to another part of the body. What it does do is extend locally. New papules appear alongside existing ones at the nape and lower occipital scalp, and over time separate papules can coalesce into a plaque or a raised band. That local extension is what most people mean when they say it is spreading, and it is a reason to have it assessed rather than to wait.
Is acne keloidalis nuchae dangerous?
Acne keloidalis nuchae is not a dangerous condition in the sense of threatening your general health, and it is not a cancer. What it does carry is a real risk of permanent cosmetic change: firm plaques, raised bands at the hairline, and scarring hair loss that does not regrow. Individual lesions can also become secondarily infected, with increasing pain, heat, spreading redness or discharge, and that does need prompt medical attention from your GP. The case for treating it early is about preventing permanent change, not about danger.
Can acne keloidalis nuchae cause hair loss?
Yes. Advanced acne keloidalis nuchae is a form of scarring alopecia. Repeated inflammation around the follicle can destroy it and replace it with fibrous tissue, and once that has happened the hair does not grow back in that area. This is the main reason the condition is worth assessing early, while it is still papular, rather than once bands of smooth scarred skin have formed at the nape. If hair loss along the hairline is your main concern, our page on traction alopecia and thinning edges covers the other common cause. Results may vary.
Is acne keloidalis nuchae a fungus?
No. Acne keloidalis nuchae is an inflammatory and fibrosing condition of the hair follicle, not a fungal infection. It is a reasonable question, because a fungal infection of the scalp can also produce bumps and hair loss and is treated completely differently. Bacterial folliculitis, ordinary acne, pseudofolliculitis barbae and a true keloid can all look similar at a glance too. Telling them apart is a clinical assessment, and getting it right at the start avoids months of the wrong treatment.
Who treats acne keloidalis nuchae at Melatone in London?
Assessment is with Arman Zaki, Founder and Lead Clinician, GMC-registered Physician Associate (Ref A8131967), who has a declared special interest in Skin of Colour across Fitzpatrick I to VI. Melatone does not prescribe for this condition and does not manage established plaque or nodular disease; both belong with your GP, who can refer you to dermatology. Where laser hair reduction is an appropriate adjunct to treatment your GP or a dermatologist has prescribed, it is delivered by Catia Zaki, our VTCT Level 4 Laser and IPL lead, after a patch test. Melatone Skin Clinic is at Unit 13A, Battersea Business Centre, 99-109 Lavender Hill, London SW11 5QL.
Where to find us
Battersea, South London.
Melatone Skin Clinic is at Unit 13A, Battersea Business Centre, 99-109 Lavender Hill, London SW11 5QL. Patients travel to us from Clapham, Brixton, Balham, Tooting and Wandsworth, from across South London, and from further afield in London.
£30 personalised consultation
Find out what stage you are at. Before it decides for you.
Related
Continue exploring
- Ingrown hairs and razor bumps, the beard-area version of this problem
- Traction alopecia and thinning edges, the other cause of hairline hair loss
- Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation in Skin of Colour
- Laser hair removal for dark skin, London (1064 nm Nd:YAG)
- All conditions
- Arman Zaki, Founder & Lead Clinician
