50ml full size, 15ml travel size
ESK · Retinal night cream
Ultimate A+
ESK Ultimate A+ · a retinal 0.1% night cream with glycolic acid, for congestion and texture
A night cream for skin that is oily, congested or breakout-prone and wants the texture work of a retinal too. Built on retinal 0.1% with glycolic acid 2% and niacinamide 4% at pH 3.5 to 4.0. ESK positions it for normal, oily and acne-prone skin, not for sensitive skin. Suitable for deeper skin tones (Fitzpatrick V to VI), introduced gradually.
- Retinal 0.1%, a form of vitamin A one step from the active form, for the look of texture, pores and tone.
- Glycolic acid 2% adds surface exfoliation, which ESK says also helps the retinal work; niacinamide 4% helps balance the look of oil.
- Non-comedogenic, free of essential oils. The last step at night.
- Not for sensitive skin, per ESK: choose Ultimate A. Not in pregnancy, breastfeeding or when trying to conceive.
New to retinal? Try the 15ml first for £42
A retinal with an acid in it is the stronger of ESK's three, and the travel size lasts 3 to 4 weeks, which is long enough to get through the build-up period before you commit to the full size.
Free UK delivery over £65 · Tracked £3.49 · Sent tracked, 2 to 4 working days
- Good to know
- Retinal is naturally yellow and may transfer onto light fabrics; let it absorb fully first. ESK does not recommend it for sensitive skin.
- Stockist
- Melatone Skin Clinic is an authorised ESK stockist. Genuine product with full traceability.
If your skin reacts, drop to fewer nights. A few days of dryness in the first month is common; lasting stinging, redness or peeling means the acid-plus-retinal combination is too much for now, and Ultimate A is the better fit. Message us rather than pushing through.
Not sure if this is right for your skin? Message us on WhatsApp or book a skin assessment and we will confirm the right routine first.
A retinal for oily, congested skin, honestly
Most people who reach for it have oily or combination skin that gets congested, with the texture and marks that follow, and want a night cream that works on all of it. That is the job: the retinal supports the look of smoother texture and a more even tone, the glycolic acid keeps dead surface cells moving, and the niacinamide helps with the look of oil.
What it will not do is treat moderate or severe acne. Painful, widespread or scarring spots need a GP or pharmacist, and often prescription treatment; a cosmetic retinal sits alongside that plan, not in place of it. If spots are leaving marks or scars, book a skin assessment; for established scarring, see acne scar treatment.
On deeper skin tones the mark a spot leaves behind often outlasts the spot, and irritation makes that worse. An acid plus a retinal is the combination most likely to irritate if rushed, so on deeper skin the slow build-up is not optional.
Quick facts
- What it is
- A retinal night cream with glycolic acid, for oily and congested skin.
- Sizes
- 50ml (£83.00, around 3 to 4 months) and 15ml travel size (£42.00, around 3 to 4 weeks).
- Best for
- Oily, combination and breakout-prone skin, congestion, the look of pores, texture and uneven tone.
- Skin types
- ESK: normal, oily and acne-prone, not sensitive skin. Suitable for deeper skin tones (Fitzpatrick V to VI), introduced slowly.
- Key ingredients
- Retinal 0.1%, glycolic acid 2%, niacinamide 4%.
- pH
- 3.5 to 4.0.
- How to use
- 1 to 2 pumps, night only, as the last step. Start 2 to 3 nights a week, build to nightly.
- Free from
- Essential oils, parabens and sulphates. Non-comedogenic.
- Daily SPF
- Required: a retinal plus glycolic acid makes sun protection essential.
- Not suitable for
- Pregnancy, breastfeeding, trying to conceive, and sensitive or rosacea-prone skin.
Where it fits in a breakout routine
Morning: Hydroxy Cleanser, then B Calm, then SPF such as Zinc Shade.
Night: Hydroxy Cleanser, then Ultimate A+ as the last step. On nights you use it, ESK says a separate moisturiser is optional; add B Calm underneath only if your skin feels dry.
For a single early spot, Spotless microneedle patches go on overnight. If your skin is reactive rather than oily, Ultimate A is the retinal to start with. Which vitamin A is which: retinal vs retinol.
The detail
Ingredients, and what each one does
- Retinal (retinaldehyde), 0.1%
- A form of vitamin A that needs one conversion step in the skin to become retinoic acid, where retinol needs two. Supports the look of smoother texture, the appearance of pores and a more even tone. Widely studied.
- Glycolic acid (AHA), 2%
- The smallest AHA. Loosens the bonds between dead surface cells so they shed, for smoother-feeling skin, and ESK says it also increases the effectiveness of retinal. Increases sun sensitivity. Widely studied.
- Niacinamide (vitamin B3), 4%
- Helps balance the look of oil and supports the skin barrier. Widely studied.
- Macadamia and sweet almond oils, glycerin
- Light emollients and a humectant, at a level that keeps the cream non-comedogenic.
- Vitamin E (tocopheryl acetate)
- An antioxidant included in the formula.
Retinal 0.1%, niacinamide 4% and glycolic acid 2% as printed on the ESK pack; pH 3.5 to 4.0 as published by ESK. Descriptions are about the look and feel of skin, not a medical outcome.
Full ingredients (INCI): Water/Aqua, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Ethanol, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Glycolic Acid, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Cetyl Alcohol, Benzyl Alcohol, PEG-75 Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Xanthan Gum, Retinal, Ceteth-20, Steareth-20, Dehydroacetic Acid.
How to use it
Night
- Cleanse and pat dry.
- Put 1 to 2 pumps of Ultimate A+ on your fingertips and apply to the face as the last step.
- Let it absorb before your head touches the pillow: retinal is yellow.
Building up
Weeks 1 to 2: every third night. Weeks 3 to 4: every other night. Then nightly if your skin is comfortable. Dryness, flaking or stinging means hold at the current frequency, or step down to Ultimate A.
Beyond the face
It can also be used on the décolletage, the backs of the hands and the forearms.
Morning
Broad-spectrum SPF every day. Glycolic acid and retinal both make sun protection essential.
What to expect, and when
- First 2 weeks
- Skin often feels smoother from the glycolic acid. Some dryness is common while you build up.
- First month
- ESK says temporary dryness or a few spots can appear and settle within a week.
- 6 to 8 weeks
- The earliest point to judge congestion, the look of pores and texture.
- 3 months
- The point to judge tone and marks. If nothing has changed, reassess with us rather than buying another bottle. Message the clinic.
Is it right for my skin
- Oily and combination skin
- Yes. This is who it is made for.
- Congested and breakout-prone skin
- Yes, as the night step of a wider routine.
- Normal skin wanting texture work
- Yes.
- Sensitive or rosacea-prone skin
- No, per ESK. Choose Ultimate A.
- Dry skin
- Usually better with Ultimate A Gold, which carries ceramides and hyaluronic acid.
- Deeper skin tones (Fitzpatrick V to VI)
- Yes, introduced slowly. Irritation on deeper skin can leave marks.
- Pregnancy, breastfeeding, trying to conceive
- No.
- On prescription acne treatment
- Ask your prescriber first. Retinoids, benzoyl peroxide and isotretinoin all change what your skin can tolerate.
Using it with what you already own
- Hydroxy Cleanser
- Yes. It is rinsed off, so the acid load is small. If skin gets dry, cleanse with it once a day.
- B Calm
- Yes, in the morning. At night it is optional under Ultimate A+.
- Vitamin C
- Yes, in the morning.
- Other exfoliating acids
- Skip them at night. Ultimate A+ already carries glycolic acid, and stacking acids with a retinal is the fastest route to irritation.
- Benzoyl peroxide
- Both can be drying. Use benzoyl peroxide in the morning and Ultimate A+ at night, and cut back if skin gets sore.
- Other retinoids
- Do not stack them. One vitamin A product at night.
- After in-clinic treatments
- Pause it for as long as your practitioner advises after a peel, microneedling or laser.
Questions we actually get asked
What is ESK Ultimate A+?
A retinal 0.1% night cream with glycolic acid 2% and niacinamide 4%, at pH 3.5 to 4.0, made for oily, congested and breakout-prone skin. It is used at night as the last step.
Is retinal good for acne-prone skin?
Vitamin A products are a long-standing part of routines for congested skin because they support the look of clearer texture and pores. Ultimate A+ is the ESK retinal aimed at that skin type. It is a cosmetic product, not an acne treatment: moderate or severe acne needs a GP or pharmacist.
Does retinal help with acne scars?
It can support the look of texture and the marks left after spots over months of use. Pitted or raised scars are structural and need in-clinic treatment; see acne scar treatment.
What is retinal, and how is it different from retinol?
Both are forms of vitamin A that the skin converts into retinoic acid. Retinal (retinaldehyde) needs one conversion step; retinol needs two. ESK's view is that retinal works faster than retinol at a comparable level of tolerance. Our guide: retinal vs retinol.
Why does it contain glycolic acid?
ESK adds glycolic acid 2% for surface exfoliation and because it says the acid increases the effectiveness of retinal. It is also why this is the strongest of ESK's three retinals, and the one ESK does not recommend for sensitive skin.
How do I use a retinal for the first time?
Start on 2 to 3 nights a week, on clean, dry skin, as the last step at night. Build to nightly over about a month if your skin stays comfortable. Use SPF every morning.
How often should I use it?
Nightly once your skin is used to it. Some people settle at every other night, which is fine.
How much should I use?
1 to 2 pumps for the face. More does not work faster and is more likely to irritate.
Retinal before or after moisturiser?
Ultimate A+ is the last step. It is a cream, so most oily skin needs nothing over it. If your skin feels dry, put B Calm on first and Ultimate A+ over it, or step down to Ultimate A.
How long does it take to work?
Smoother-feeling skin often within 2 weeks from the acid. Congestion, pores and texture take 6 to 8 weeks; tone and marks about 3 months.
Will it make me purge?
ESK says some people get temporary dryness or a few spots in the first month, lasting no more than a week. Spots where you never break out, or stinging that lasts, mean cut back and message us.
Can I use it every night?
Yes, once your skin is used to it. Start at 2 to 3 nights a week and build.
Can I use a salicylic acid cleanser with it?
Yes. A cleanser is rinsed off, so it adds little. If your skin gets dry, use the cleanser once a day instead of twice.
Can I use glycolic acid with it?
It already contains glycolic acid, so do not add another acid at night. Save other exfoliants for a different routine, if at all.
Can I use niacinamide with it?
Yes. Niacinamide 4% is already in the formula, and B Calm in the morning is fine.
Can I use vitamin C with it?
Yes, on the same day: vitamin C in the morning, Ultimate A+ at night.
Can I use benzoyl peroxide with it?
Not in the same application. Benzoyl peroxide in the morning, Ultimate A+ at night, and cut back if skin gets sore or flaky.
Can I use it with another retinoid or tretinoin?
No. One vitamin A product at night. If you are on prescription tretinoin, adapalene or isotretinoin, ask your prescriber before adding anything.
Can I use retinal in pregnancy or while breastfeeding?
No. Do not use it in pregnancy, breastfeeding or when trying to conceive.
Is it suitable for sensitive skin?
No. ESK says it is not recommended for sensitive skin. Ultimate A is the retinal for reactive skin.
Is it suitable for deeper skin tones?
Yes. It is suitable for deeper skin tones (Fitzpatrick V to VI), introduced slowly. Irritation on deeper skin can leave marks that outlast the cause, so the build-up weeks matter.
Does it help with dark marks after spots?
Retinal and niacinamide both support the look of a more even tone over months. Calm the breakouts too, or new marks keep arriving. For marks as the main concern, see Enlighten Gold.
Why is it yellow, and will it stain?
Retinal is naturally yellow and may transfer onto pillowcases or light fabrics. Let it absorb before contact and wash fabrics promptly.
Do I need SPF if I only use it at night?
Yes, every morning. Glycolic acid and retinal both make daily sun protection essential.
What is the difference between Ultimate A, Ultimate A+ and Ultimate A Gold?
Ultimate A is retinal 0.06% with niacinamide, the gentlest. Ultimate A+ is retinal 0.1% with glycolic acid 2%, for oily and congested skin. Ultimate A Gold is retinal 0.1% with niacinamide, a PHA, 4-n-butylresorcinol, hyaluronic acid and ceramides, the most complete and the one for dry or mature skin.
How should I store it?
It comes in an airless pump. Keep it closed, out of direct light and away from heat, and use it within the period on the pack once opened.
Does it contain fragrance?
No fragrance or essential oils appear in its ingredient list. It is free from parabens and sulphates.
How long does a bottle last?
The 50ml lasts around 3 to 4 months of nightly use, and longer while you build up. The 15ml travel size lasts around 3 to 4 weeks.
Is it cruelty free and vegan?
Yes. ESK states that Ultimate A+ is cruelty free and vegan.
Is Melatone an authorised ESK stockist?
Yes. Melatone Skin Clinic is an authorised ESK stockist. Stock comes directly from ESK, so every item is genuine and traceable, and it is the same product we use in clinic.
Can someone help me work out whether this is right for me?
Yes. Message us on WhatsApp with a description of your skin, or book a skin assessment at the clinic in Battersea.
What is the delivery and returns position?
Tracked UK delivery is £3.49, or free over £65, and usually arrives in 2 to 4 working days. Sealed, unopened items can be returned within 60 days for a refund.
Buying it from Melatone
Melatone Skin Clinic is an authorised ESK stockist. Stock is bought directly from ESK, so every item is genuine and traceable, and it is the same product we use in clinic in Battersea, London.
If you are not sure this is the right retinal for your skin, do not guess. Message us on WhatsApp or book a skin assessment, and we will suggest a routine before you buy.
Delivery
Tracked UK delivery, £3.49 or free over £65. It usually arrives within 2 to 4 working days, with tracking by email. The price you see is the price you pay, with any delivery charge shown in full before checkout.
Returns
Sealed, unopened items may be returned within 60 days of receiving your order for a refund. For hygiene reasons we cannot accept returns of skincare once any seal has been opened, unless faulty. Your statutory 14-day right to cancel is unaffected.
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